Sunday, 9 August 2015

No. 28 - The bar-restaurant anomaly

A pseudo bar-club that serves average food at elevated prices - a fairly standard scene in Newcastle. A pseudo bar-club that delivers great food at fair prices - don't be ridiculous! Actually, one of the Fat Spoon's favourite watering holes, No. 28, just by Grainger Market, is just that place. Believe it or not, before the lights get dimmed and the animals of Newcastle ascend in this rather pretty bar, they not only sell food, but they offer a bistro menu that is interesting, (almost overly) varied and largely delicious.

Most bars that dabble in food usually make an utter (crispy) pig's ear of it, offering weakly constructed dishes usually based around soggy pulled pork, uninspiring burgers or desiccated roast dinners. The alternative approach, greedy restaurants that try their hand at a cocktail menu, are equally as shameful. Nobody wants your version of a long island iced tea, "special" because you've dropped the alcohol content with dodgy spirits. Responsibly, No. 28 is neither of these. They really are a dedicated cocktail bar with a great atmosphere, some nice cocktails and a surprisingly strong eatery.

No. 28 boldly holds no allegiance to any one (or two or three) form of cuisine, a strategy that would usually result in a disastrously confused menu and a vulgar variety of substandard dishes. But somehow, No. 28 pulls off culinary diversity really well, across their tapas sharing starters you can expects some brilliant flavours and inventive takes on classics, such as nacho crumbed quesadillas and curried butternut croquettes. They've also been known to serve a welcomed experiment with pulled pork - a giant filo parcel ram-packed with the stunning wet meat and black pudding, served with yet more pork, mashed potato concealed within greens and a whisky sauce. They're probably enraging chefs of Newcastle daily with their boundary-crossing Restaurant Week menu; and they genuinely don't give a monkeys! An approach the Fat Spoon certainly applauds. All in all, at No. 28 you can expect warming table service, some great food accompanied by money saving deals in pleasant surroundings. 85%

Sunday, 14 June 2015

Ice Cream Showdown - Kaspa's Desserts versus Mark Toney


Kaspa's, an American-style ice cream franchise beast has recently arrived in Newcastle, but this city already has it's long standing king of ice cream - Mark Toney; and this old school café has no intention of moving over. Kaspa's is a hugely exciting concept that has already conquered fifteen locations across the country. The Newcastle site, like the others, is an aggressively colourful American style dessert diner, offering a variety of ice cream sundaes as well waffles, crepes, milkshakes and distasteful cakes - bubble gum cake simply shouldn't exist.

The three Mark Toney cafes of Newcastle couldn't be more different to the American giant, they exist as micro time warps, with 60's styling throughout and a classic café menu to match. They offer an excellently greasy full English for a mere £5 as well as great cakes, pasties and pastries. But Mark Toney cafes are largely renowned in Newcastle for their outstanding array of quality ice creams, particularly high valued on the scarce sunny days that we get. They offer a variety of cones, tubs and excellent value large takeaway tubs, where they're more than happy to let you go wild on ice cream varieties. And you can be confident that every scoop is of outstanding quality and flavour; well deserving of their multiple 'great taste awards'.

Kaspa's do have some excellent ice creams to offer, but as is typical of money hungry franchises, they do what they can to cut corners. The great high quality flavoured ice cream is usually diluted with flavourless 'ice cream factory' style ice cream as well as ridiculous amounts of whipped cream. Whereas Mark Toney will always give you a full pot of the real deal, and won't douse their desserts in sugar-rich fake chocolate sauce. And although the portions at Kaspa's are pretty hefty, they also seem to think £7+ is an acceptable price for their short cut sundaes. Where good old Mark Toney is a fraction of that cost. What's more, once you look past the initial bright lights and vibrant colours of Kaspa's, you quickly realise its nothing more than a vulgar, plastic coated, over priced McFlurry station set up for greedy kid's birthday parties and those hoping to eat their way out of the woes of their life.

For variety, flavour richness and sheer quality of ice cream, there can only ever be one winner here - Mark Toney cafés. Proving that old school really is the best school. Kaspa's can take their soggy pancakes and whippy pretend ice cream back to the states.

Mark Toney cafés 76%
Kaspa's Desserts 57%

Sunday, 31 May 2015

Shiraz - Sheer Authenticity

Newcastle's ever notorious Bigg Market. It's an adulteration of vulgar bars, weird 'clubs' and beyond drunk chavs ruminating on themselves. But thankfully, there are a number of brilliant eateries in the area that have upheld it's worth, as well as a fairly newly-managed Indian restaurant - Shiraz. Despite appearing to be oddly named after the wine yielding Syrah grape of Southern France, Shiraz is all about one thing - real, honest, authentic Punjabi food.

There are probably hundreds of lacklustre and pitifully weak 'Indian' restaurants in Newcastle, the majority of which hiding away in the depths of Fenham. Many of which plating up dubious meat in a variety of uninspiring sauces, most of which can only be differentiated by amount of stale chilli powder in them or the volume of oil they're drowning in. Shiraz, however, is the absolute opposite of these Asian abominations. They offer a comprehensive menu of classic Punjabi cuisine, encompassing brilliant vegetarian classics such as saag paneer and bhindi masala (okra), as well as tonnes of solid meat dishes. Their seekh kebab starter is also very much on point, as is the selection of desserts they offer, which thankfully includes homemade gulab jamun - the Fat Spoon's favourite. The menu doesn't feature anything too adventurous, but when your looking for authenticity in Punjabi cuisine, then Shiraz is quite possibly Newcastle's gold standard.

Oddly their website seems to have been suspended, but that certainly doesn't reflect their level of service. Shiraz offers personal service with a passionate knowledge of their cuisine as well as having that family-run vibe to it. The restaurant is clean cut and doesn't come coated in that layer of scabbiness that often surrounds lower cost Indian restaurants. The dishes are very fairly priced, but possessing a tastecard will reduce the cost of your curry feed to insanely little, bringing it near a rupee-like range and making for an absolute bargain. 83%

Sunday, 12 April 2015

Quay Ingredient - Brilliant Breakfast under the Bridge

With the classic greasy spoon trade gradually being extinguished in the city centre (RIP Gourmet Grub) and many more fancy pants breakfast bistros taking their place, it’s becoming increasingly difficult to get a proper big English breakfast, let alone one of high quality; and typically you would have to travel to The Butterfly Cabinet in Heaton to get such a fix. But there’s a cheeky little café on the Quayside that goes by the name of Quay Ingredient that has everything you’d ever want for breakfast, and more.

Despite being a tiny venue, Maggie, hostess at Quay Ingredient will try her best to fit you in somewhere. And even if you do have to wait a little, the outstanding plates offered here are definitely worth the wait. The charm of this place resonates both through their friendly service and encompassing breakfast menu. They offer numerous eggs benedict/Florentine type dishes that are perfectly acceptable choices and delicious of course. But for those people that know what that want in life, the fearless destroyers of food - a fully loaded Quay Ingredient full English is the only thing that will satisfy your lust for pork. And it’s a very well crafted breakfast, a great size and involves some high quality components (particularly good sausages). It doesn’t stop there either, Quay Ingredient has been a purveyor of some brilliant tea well before those Quilliam kids showed up, offering perfectly complimentary brews for your breakfast. They even serve protein shakes for the amino acid junks, proving their constant effort to keep everyone happy.

As well as nailing breakfast, Quay Ingredient also serves up some brilliant sandwiches, cakes, pastries, toasties and coffee…all the kind of things that make greeders happy, and best of all, none of which are served with a that side of snobbery that many high-end cafes make compulsory. So, if you’re looking for that perfect breakfast or lunch fix, delivered by the friendliest café in the city, there is simply only one solution. Forsake that vulgar, soggy, greasy breakfast sandwich with questionable sausage that fat Pam’s greasy spoons is trying to sell you…and get yourself to Quay Ingredient for the real deal. 84%

Wednesday, 8 April 2015

Palace Garden - Dim Sum with the Royal Treatment

Sunday afternoon ‘high-tea’ has rapidly become a popular outing for the affluent and those wanting to take the mother somewhere fancy that involves feeding yourself too. But the Chinese have their own variant of ‘high-tea’ that’s somewhat more longstanding – dim sum Sundays. And Palace Garden is undoubtedly the absolute king of this delicious tradition. Although they have a highly comprehensive traditional Chinese menu and dim sum menu throughout the week, on Sundays they offer a highly convenient trolley service that really adds to the mysterious and magic feel of the dim sum dining experience.

With a pictoral menu, it’s very easy to select any number of interesting dumplings, steamy offal dishes and meaty wonders, made to order by the expert chefs at Palace Garden. Better still, speaking to the highly attentive and friendly serving staff will get you out of your comfort zone and trying some of their personal favourites, mooli cake and char sui baau are definitely two dishes worth a try. The numerous trollies, laden with bamboo hampers of beef, pork, fish and ‘other’ meat dim sum will provide you with a ‘YO Sushi!’-like eating format, where food is ever flowing, but without the associated costliness. Their thousand layer cake also abolishes the notion that dessert is absent in Chinese cuisine. And for those weak people lacking in culinary bravery, there’s plenty of ‘normal’ Chinese dishes available too.

Taking the outstanding quality of food, brilliantly personal service and stunning décor of the restaurant into account, it’s easy to recognise why this place is so a popular, there’s even an indoor pond with a bridge over it! Where, seemingly you can choose a sea beast to have cooked and served to you - ultra-freshness points there. The delivery of their dim sum makes Palace Garden simply the best outlet of this cuisine in Newcastle and if you have yet to pop your dim sum cherry, then it’s the ideal place to get broken into this wonderful and varied cuisine. 90%

Sunday, 29 March 2015

Bierrex - Meat You by the Taps!

Some see it as a flavour fever. Others as a culinary plague. Wherever you stand, the BBQ grill house revolution has taken over Newcastle (and most of the UK's bigger cities for that matter). Across the board the concept is fairly simple. Super tender slow-cooked beef and pork married with secret BBQ marinades; fiery blackened chicken wings; and carbohydrate enriched sides dishes, all served with copious amounts of craft beer in rustic and characterful diners/gastro-pubs. Where could any of that go wrong?

The sheer number of these BBQ meat foundries means that it's very difficult for newcomers like Bierrex to stand out. Branding themselves as a 'smoke and tap' house, they've tried to segregate themselves from others of their kind by emphasising the beastly number of beers they have on tap. This unlabelled tap feature along with their open kitchen and clean-cut diner type should be a recipe for a fun eating experience. The menu is also pretty well constructed, offering particularly interesting customisable boards with your choice of smoky meats and authentic American sides. Another nice touch is a notice board that displays when their slow cooked wonders saw the oven and when they came out. And all in all, the food is tasty and very well priced, the service is friendly and the ale is (as always) delicious. Their homemade condiments are also rather special.

However, that isn't enough to mark a perfect BBQ dining venture, as the inexperience of the kitchen and serving staff rains through this American dream like a shower of BBQ sauce to the face. Long waiting times between being seated and served is inexcusable on such a small floor; as is spending 15 minutes to plate up the food....leaving half of the dishes barely above room temperature on arrival. And although some of the features, such as the giant sausage, hot wings and macaroni cheese are exceptionally delicious. Other crucial elements like the brisket and pulled pork were definitely missing that special southern flavour...leaving them tasting about as magical as a cold and wet McRib 'burger'. This place has plenty of potential, it just needs to be the place it says it is...rather the half-baked attempt it currently is. Also, calling a pile of pecans chucked on some dry pastry does not count as pecan pie...there's no fooling this Fat Spoon. 70%

Sunday, 8 February 2015

Moulin Rouge Cafe - Hidden Persian Gem

Westgate road and the areas of Fenham that it lead up to are an absolute haven for numerous sub-standard 'cafés', 'restaurants' and 'takeaways' of sheer filth. Generic, baseless menu's that poorly represent Persian or Asian cuisine; childishly and arrogantly parading shawarmas, kebabs and mixed grills of questionable meat, married with lacklustre flavours in vulgar venues. Many of which even the drunk-beyond-belief low life of the region would turn their noses up at. But it isn't all doom and grease on Westgate Road, there are handful of hidden gems amongst the rotten eggs and Moulin Rouge is definitely the crown jewel amongst them.

Moulin Rouge is a god send for anyone looking for an affordable but delicious solution to authentic Persian cuisine. Fresh ingredients, a simple open kitchen, daily specials and a very welcoming atmosphere are all features that Moulin Rouge should certainly pride themselves on. Better still, their not afraid of going beyond the standard 'grilled meat with rice on a plate', (although they do that very well too), they also provide a selection of less common traditional dishes....a wet dream for any restaurant punter sick of the sight of generic dishes that riddle dining culture these days.

Although it appears to be a simple café, Moulin Rouge is a whole lot more than that, their more complex specials, cheerful BYOB policy and highly accommodative service means that you can celebrate almost any occasion in this perfectly relaxed rustic venue. And if that wasn't enough, the sheer cost effectiveness and clean-eat nature of their cuisine will have you coming back time and time again. Although if you are wanting your fill of grease, then they've also perfected the art of hangover breakfasts, offering bargainous fry-ups that might literally save your bacon. On top of all that, they even have plenty of choice for those odd vegetarian types! - literally every man, woman and child needs to give Moulin a try. 81%